"Great Seafood and Funky Atmosphere"
- Culinary Critics, North Andover Citizen
by Sue Tabb

The decor is funky, eclectic and fun at Joe Fish Seafood Restaurant and Bar in North Andover. The Culinary Critics enjoyed dining at the casual restaurant located on Osgood Street (Rt. 125) on a recent weekday afternoon. We found a cozy atmosphere, a friendly wait staff and quality seafood dishes.

As soon as you walk into Joe Fish, you know you're in for a different type of dining experience. There are low exposed beams, a faux tree that branches out over some of the tables, a gas fireplace with a very interesting screen, vivid-colored tables with lanterns hanging overhead and a tastefully understated seat them that includes some pictures of fish and a section of an old rowboat affixed to one wall.

One critic described the setting as "neatly chaotic" as we were brought over to a table under the tree and next to the fireplace. As we perused the menu options, we were pleased to see such a variety of offerings–anything from reasonably priced sandwiches, roll-ups and burgers ($5.99 and up), to more pricey dinners, such as crabmeat stuffed jumbo shrimp ($15.99), sunset salmon ($14.99), Maryland-style crab cakes ($13.99) or seafood fra diavolo ($15.99). They also feature a variety of salads, appetizers, chowders and some selections from their raw bar.

Our waitress, who happened to be extremely personable, was quick to greet us, tell us about the day's specials and take our drink order. She asked if we had any time constraints or if we were here for a more leisurely lunch. This small gesture was greatly appreciated, since one of us did have an afternoon meeting that we had to be back for. It's been an awfully long time since any waitperson has ever asked me such a question, and when you are on the clock, with a limited window for lunch, it's a welcomed courtesy.

After sipping on a couple of root beers and a lemonade, we made our lunch choices. The waitress was honest and conversational, giving us a detailed description f the entrees and her recommendations. I decided on the Singapore shrimp–shrimp steamed over jasmine rice with sugar snap peas and broccoli florets, topped with melted Monterey Jack cheese ($14.99). One of my lunch partners chose Joe's baked seafood trio–a combination of seafood favorites, including scallops, shrimp and haddock filet topped with garlic butter, crumbs and cheese ($15.99). My other culinary colleague selected the popcorn shrimp roll–fried and seasoned baby shrimp with French fries ($7.99).

We waited about 20 minutes or so for our entrees, which was reasonable, considering they prepare all of their items fresh to order. In addition, our waitress updated us about halfway through, telling us that our meals would be out momentarily, which also made the wait more tolerable.

My Singapore shrimp dish was delicious, with plenty of fresh baby shrimp, steamed vegetables, fluffy white rice and some fruit garnish. The melted cheese was just enough to give the meal some added flavor and texture, but it wasn't overdone. The portion was about right; I was able to finish it and felt very satisfied.

The popcorn shrimp roll was overflowing with fried shrimp that were "lightly crunchy and fresh" according to one critic. She enjoyed the sandwich, as well as the hearty portion of thin, crispy French fries that she drenched in ketchup. She wasn't able to finish everything but was very pleased with her choice.

Finally, my colleague who ordered the seafood trio spoke, saying the meal was "savory, moist and delicious–definitely something that I would order again." She described the casserole-type dish as having a large piece of haddock, lots of scallops, and a few shrimp topped with a cheesy breadcrumb mixture. It was seasoned to her liking, with just a hint of spiciness. Since this would be our most discriminating critic, it is always reassuring to see that she is happy. She also received a heaping portion of fries, which I decided to help her with, and a side order of rice pilaf.

Our total bill came to $48.01 before tip for the three of us. This did not include any appetizers or desserts, since we simply didn't have time on this particular trip. However, we do plan on returning to sample some of the things that looked particularly appealing.

Overall, we were delighted with our little seafood outing. We had heard very good things about Joe Fish but needed to see firsthand what all the fuss was about. Quality food is always the No. 1 draw, but add a pleasing atmosphere and great service and you have the magic formula that will keep the customers coming back. If you try Joe Fish Seafood Restaurant and Bar, I would bet you'll become a regular.